Wednesday, March 11, 2009

   from Nick

Three things I've learned : Reflections from the 2009 USBC

1) The signature drinks are getting out of control!

A little math, shall we?

Espresso section: (Sensory: 62 points x 4) + (Technical: 17 x 2) = 282
cappuccino: (38 x 4) + (22 x 2) = 196
signature drink: (42 x 4) + (17 x 2) = 202

Creating a great signature drink taste experience is definitely important, but competition baristas need to spend just as much effort and energy on cappuccinos... and even MORE on the single espresso, as on the sig' drink.

Also, at this year's USBC, we saw signature drinks as elaborate as I've ever seen, but I can't think of one of those that really nailed it on the taste points. Taste of the signature drink is worth four-times the creativity points, but the former seems to be sacrificed in pursuit of the latter.

Competition baristas need to learn the scoresheets and prioritize based on what gets your the points. Of course, that's assuming they want to get as many points as they can.


2) Single-origin espresso is great for competition

A blend is, by definition, a more complex thing than (most) single-origin espressos. Baristas are identifying 4 or 5 taste-notes out of the dozen, sometimes dozens, that are present in a blend.

In a good single-origin espresso however, flavors tend to be a bit more simple--with a few key flavor descriptors being not only prominent, but present in a more consistent way. Being able to accurately communicate the taste and flavor experience is such a significant part of the taste scores that using a good (emphasis on "good") single-origin can present a fairly significant advantage. It can also help in the presentation and explanation of the coffee, having one origin, farm, etc. to focus on.

However, this leads to my last reflection:

3) We don't give the Robur enough credit.*

To my recollection, the Mazzer Robur has been used by every USBC Champion. That said, I believe that the Mazzer Robur is one of the most important elements in the development of the U.S. "competition-level" espresso flavor profile.

More relevant research needs to be done, but for now, it is my understanding that the Robur's burr design creates more fines (the finest particles) than any other grinder on the market, which conversely allows for the bulk of the particulate to be ground more coarsely to achieve the typical extraction time. Now there are more complex factors at hand, but focusing just on this one component, the grind profile of the Robur effectively tilts the extraction more towards under-extraction. The solubles that would be extracted if the particulate were ground finer are less expressed.

I believe that this has resulted in the improved performance of single-origin coffees as espresso in the U.S. This is especially true when it comes to fully washed coffees.

So hats-off to you, Mr. Robur (or is it Miss Robur? I dunno... the damn thing is too heavy to lift up to get a look at its private parts). You don't get enough credit out there. Every shop that aspires to pull competition-style viscous, sweet, flavorful shots should have a Robur. There are other grinders that allow for a similar profile (the Anfim Super Caimano and Compak K10 come to mind), but the Robur is still the King.

Or Queen.

* note- I'm intentionally limiting the scope of my comments on #3 to the U.S. Extraction profiles and what flavors and viscosity baristas are going for definitely varies from culture to culture.


Oh... and #4 in my three-part list:

4) Mike Phillips is my hero.

Good luck in Atlanta to Mike, and all of the National Barista Champions who are coming for the 10th annual World Barista Championship. May your drinks all be "Sixes!" (or at least Fives).

33 Comments:

Blogger Reiss Gunson said...

Hi Nick

Good to get your condensed comments on the USBC

How's business on your side of the pond?

Kind regards


Reiss

3/11/2009 10:10:00 AM  
Blogger AndyS said...

Trying to figure out why "tilting the extraction more towards under-extraction" is supposed to be a positive....

3/11/2009 06:25:00 PM  
Anonymous true said...

Nick, I couldn't have said it better myself, especially about points 1 and 2. It was difficult to grok what exactly was going on with some of those sig drink preparations. I hated seeing the 5/5/5/2.5 scores; I'd love to see an average across all of the sensory scores for sig drink taste balance. One other point about the single origin espresso that is important: with a single shot 5.5 ounce cap, I was picking out much more balance towards the espresso profile through the milk than with the blends. I would argue, however, that the current generation of single origin espresso with complex blends of roast profiles are every bit as nuanced and complex in taste as the blends.

3/12/2009 07:16:00 AM  
Blogger James Hoffmann said...

@true

I have a signature drink rule that has always stood me in good stead when competitors ask. It must be sufficiently tasty that you can actually drink the entire thing, and then you'd be happy to drink a whole one more.

It might be 'clever' and you might be able to pick out all the flavours in one or two sips but if you don't want to keep drinking it then something is wrong.

3/14/2009 04:25:00 PM  
Anonymous Tim Allen said...

Isn't there a saying that those who can't compete - judge?

There might be some validity to the robur being the choice of champs but the United States has been beaten every year regardless of how cherished their roburs are. Morrissey won with an Anfim and Hoffmann with K30s.

Perhaps the roburs are enough to win America but lacking when it comes to the rest of the world.

3/14/2009 08:52:00 PM  
Blogger AndyS said...

> Perhaps the roburs are enough to win America
> but lacking when it comes to the rest of the world.

If MP wants to use a macho three-phase Robur with 83mm burrs instead of those wimpy 71mm single phase burrs, I'll build the power supply.

3/15/2009 05:36:00 PM  
Blogger aikibarista said...

In the 80's the Germans were known to be the best hackers, but they had the worst equipment.

Why DOES the Robur seem to come up short on the world stage? How good would Sampras have been with McEnroe's racket? Is there TOO much reliance on the grinder?

3/16/2009 09:34:00 AM  
Blogger Mark said...

That depends on where the world champion is getting points that the Robur using USA champ isnt. If the World champ is only getting ahead on technical points, how does that correlate to robur coming up short?

And on the other side of the coin, how much improvement does the Robur offer above the sponsored K10?

3/19/2009 09:14:00 PM  
Blogger onocoffee said...

K10?

The Compak K10 is no longer the sponsor of the WBC/USBC.

The Mahlkonig K30 however is the current sponsored grinder for the WBC/USBC.

3/19/2009 09:31:00 PM  
Blogger Matt Henthorn said...

I'm a bit confused by point 3 here. An uneven grind is better? If it's a good thing that you can grind coarser, why not use a grinder that doesn't put out so much fine stuff and still grind coarser?

Sure, you have to tamp harder and there's more room for error. But more surface area, even grind, even extraction, more extraction of the tasty stuff...I don't get it.

Maybe it's my inexperience or lack of knowledge showing through, but I would be very appreciative if someone could explain this to me.

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